Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
